Kanazawa's Hidden Gem: Ono & Kanaiwa - A Port Town with History and Charm
The charm of a town is created by the people who live there. A perfect example of this can be found in Kanazawa.
Ono and Kanaiwa, the gateway to the sea in Kanazawa.
As you walk through these areas, you’ll feel a different sense of time, distinct from the city center, all while taking in the scent of the sea.
Meeting the locals, full of pride and love for their town, will make your journey even more enjoyable.
The Summer Festivals of Ono & Kanaiwa
Once a thriving port for the "Kitamae-bune" ships, Ono and Kanaiwa still retain the historical charm of a bustling maritime town. As you walk through the streets, you can feel the history around every corner.
At the Hiyoshi Shrine in Ono and the Ono Minato Shrine in Kanaiwa, large festivals are held each summer.
The Sanno Festival at Hiyoshi Shrine on the fourth Saturday and Sunday of July, and the Summer Grand Festival at Ono Minato Shrine, which takes place on the weekend ending on the first Sunday of August.
Both festivals center around the portable shrines (mikoshi) and are some of the largest in Kanazawa, offering a chance to experience the vibrant energy of the port town firsthand.
What is "Kitamae-bune"?
"Kitamae-bune" ships, which were traditional cargo vessels that played a key role in maritime trade during the Edo and Meiji periods (1603-1912). These ships transported goods along the Sea of Japan’s coastal routes, linking regions like Hokkaido and Kanazawa. As you walk through the streets of Ono and Kanaiwa, you can still feel the history of this vibrant maritime past.
The wealthy merchant, Zeniya Gohei (1774-1852), who supported the economy of Kaga domain through the Kitamae-bune ships, was falsely accused during his later years for his involvement in the reclamation project of the Kahokugata area. He met an untimely death in prison. The Zeniya Gohei Memorial Museum offers a glimpse into his life, which holds many lessons for modern-day individuals, as well as insights into the Kitamae-bune trade.
The museum is located just a short walk from the Ono Minato Shrine, so why not visit both during your trip?
Sushi restaurants within walking distance from the port of call
Located in a corner of Kanazawa Port, Ono Port is where freshly caught fish, such as those from bottom trawl fishing, are unloaded from nearby seas. It’s a bustling area with many fishing boats coming and going, full of energy.
Just a short walk from Ono Port, Hōshō Sushi is a well-known sushi restaurant started by the first generation, who was originally a fisherman. It’s famous for serving delicious sushi in Ono. The restaurant, which has been renovated from an old traditional house, exudes a calm and charming atmosphere.
While enjoying your sushi, it might be nice to ask the friendly chefs about the must-see spots in Ono.
A market filled with freshly caught fish
Located at Ono Port, Kanazawa Port Iki-iki Uoichi Fish Market is a fresh seafood market with six stores, primarily operated by fishermen and those involved in the fishing industry. The market specializes in fresh fish, dried fish, and seafood bowls, with a focus on freshness and locally sourced ingredients. Seasonal seafood is highly valued, not only by locals but also by professional chefs.
If you find a fish you’d like to eat, you can request it to be prepared and filleted on the spot, allowing you to enjoy it as sashimi right then and there (with an eat-in corner available).
Power of "Koji" and Fermented Foods for Health and Beauty in Ono
An essential part of Hokuriku Resion's food culture is fermented foods made with "koji" malt. At Yamato Soy Sauce & Miso Co. in Ono, a town famous for soy sauce production, their main factory is named "Koji Park." Here, you can learn about soy sauce and miso while enjoying free guided tours of the brewery, making miso balls, cooking classes, and other fun programs that will teach you the secrets to becoming a "gut beauty."
There is also a fermented food lunch (reservation required, 30 servings per day) available at the Hakko Bijin Shokudo restaurant.
What is the relationship between Ono and soy sauce?
The production of soy sauce in Ono is said to have begun when the townspeople of Ono, under the orders of the third lord of the Kaga Domain, Maeda Toshitsune, learned the art of soy sauce making in Yuasa, present Wakayama prefecture (there are various theories though). Since then, for over 400 years, Ono has become one of Japan's five major soy sauce production areas. Known for its light and sweet flavor, it is also called "Ono Umakuchi Soy Sauce," and it is an essential ingredient in Kaga cuisine.
Lunch Spots in Kanaiwa That Satisfy Both Your Stomach and Soul
Inspired by the blue skies over Kanaiwa and the delicious miso soup made by the mothers who greet the fishermen at the port, "Soramiso" is named after these two elements.
The menu is simple: miso soup, rice balls, and a selection of drinks and desserts. You can enjoy Kaga’s home-style "Metta-jiru" (a type of miso soup) and rice balls with unique ingredients created by the staff. The smiles of the staff and the comforting, heartfelt flavors will warm your heart. One of the popular items is the "Miso Soft Ice Cream," topped with corn shaped like breakwaters.
Passing Down the Food Culture of the Port Town to the Next Generation
Traditional local dishes in Kanaiwa, such as Namagusa-zuke (fermented fish), Hoshi Zoro-ni (dried fish stew), and Ika no Teppou-ni (squid stew), are full of wisdom on how to make delicious meals out of fish that don't make it to the market.
To preserve this food culture, which is at risk of disappearing, a project called "Kanaiwa Recipe" has been started. Led by Kennyu Terauchi, the abbot of Myokaku-ji Temple, the initiative aims to pass down these culinary traditions to future generations.
They also participate in various events around Kanazawa City, helping to spread the deliciousness of Kanaiwa to a wider audience.
Visit Beloved Local Favorites Like You Belong
Founded over 85 years ago, Menbo Nakamoto is a beloved local eatery that has been a staple of the town for generations. The variety and generous portions on the menu are also a point of pride.
On the other hand, there's a charming spot that doubles as a flower shop by day and transforms into the izakaya Sake-dokoro Natchan by night. It's a hidden gem in Kanaiwa where you can meet fun and friendly locals.
When traveling, stepping into a local favorite spot allows you to experience the true charm of the area. In Ono and Kanaiwa, there are plenty of such places where even visitors can feel right at home.
Menbo Nakamoto
Adress/3-1-17 Kanaiwa-kita, Kanazawa
TEL/ +81 76-267-0240
Open/11:30 AM -8:00 PM
Close/Wednesdays
Hanazaiku Natsugishi(Flower shop)/Sake-dokoro Natchan(Izakaya)
Adress/ 4-3-1 Kanaiwa-nishi, Kanazawa
TEL/ +81 76-268-8700
Open/ 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM (Flower shop), 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM (Izakaya)
Close/ Sundays, National holidays
